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However, if you're an innocent to the language and the culture, such serendipity can be rare. If you find yourself in the wrong place, you may be oh-so-politely tolerated, perhaps ignored, or - in the very worst case, refused service and asked to leave yes, it sometimes happens. It's best to stick to the beaten track at first, which is where we will point you to here. If you haven't eaten, and its still early evening, why not make a complete gay night of it and head to Ni-Chome for dinner? The Bygs Building on block 'C' of the gay Shinjuku map has an excellent izakaya Japanese-style restaurant called 'Uoya Itcho' on the B1 basement floor.
Uoya Itcho is big enough to never have to wait long, it's cheap enough to eat and drink your fill for under 3, yen, the food is good enough to be memorable, and Uoya Itcho is chock-a-block with gay guys: The menu at Uoya Itcho is extensive, running from the hale and hearty: You're feeling rotund and satisfied, and those three draft beers with dinner finished off, was it, with a cup of warm sake? Go out of the restaurant, up the escalator, left out of the Bygs Building and then immediately left again. Go left down Nakadori and after a few paces you'll come to AiiRO Cafe, formerly Advocate's bar, just on your left, on the corner of the block.
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Like the other much bigger one, Dragon Men , its openness gives the crowd there the kind of fluidity that few other Ni-Chome places have. AiiRO is cruisy, the ultimate in easy-come easy-go: Especially when the weather's warm, the crowd at AiiRO spills way out into the street, giving it something like the feel of a block party. There are flyers at both AiiRO and Dragon for other bars and events, and, if you really need to know something, the staff of both bars speaks adequate English.
Retrace your steps in the direction of the Bygs Building.
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You'll notice how many gay video, magazine and book shops there are, brightly lit as convenience stores, peddling horn and porn. Take the first on your left after Nakadori and on the second block you come to, on the left, you'll see the entrance to Bar GB downstairs. GB is where the picking up hots up - and where the sparkle of aboveground fun shares eyes with the more careful business of sizing up, glancing, holding it there, moving on over or looking away. GB is dominated by the big central square bar, around which the customers sit and stand.
The staff at GB is welcoming and friendly.
The drinks at GB are generous, and GB is rarely less than full. The light is dim, and it's cruisy without being sleazy: Bar GB is a great place for hatching plans and hooking up for later action. People are fully engaged with each other at GB, and no one is a stranger for long. Campy Bar is a more recent gay bar that has quickly become a Ni-Chome classic. Campy Bar was started in by the celebrity drag queen, Mlle. Bourbonne, and is a fun, flirty place for a cocktail or two, and with the kind of reputation that makes it a stopping point for friendly straights as well.
Once it's heading for midnight, you might feel like a more all out dose of fun. Take another look at the flyers you picked up. Like the bars for the Japanese, the club nights are also strictly segregated. There might even be something gay on that evening at one of the big places off Ni-Chome like Ageha or the Warehouse. Arty Farty is often a good place to start.
Go left out of GB and take the first street on your right. You'll see the red sign for Arty Farty out on the pavement on the left side of the street. Arty Farty is a second floor dance club with as diverse a crowd as you'll find anywhere on Ni-Chome. Like anything gay in Japan, however, it is generally young, with few overs, but whoever turns up is not going to feel out of place.
No matter how quiet things might seem on the street, Arty Farty is routinely jam packed. On walking in you line up at the bar. Even at its most packed it doesn't take more than five minutes to get served.
Gay Tokyo: a travel guide to Tokyo's best gay bars, clubs, hotels
Unlike the other clubs, entrance is free, but buying a drink - upon which you get a stamp on your hand - is obligatory before you can enter the dance floor, a step or two down from the bar. The place is usually thronged, with generally two-thirds to three-quarters of the crowd on the dancefloor. The decor is, as the name suggests, whackier than it is conventional, but not very noticeable when it's crowded.
Arty Farty is good solid gay clubbing - not exactly cutting edge, but done in a very crowdpleasing way. From 9pm to midnight you can make requests.