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The train passengers were gloating vindictively at the traffic and seemed to be murmuring, 'Stop, you bitches! Schoolboys in dark blue blazers, carrying cricket bats and school bags, their socks falling down, were smirking on the platform at Tonbridge. We raced by them, taking their smirks away. We didn't stop, not even at the larger stations.

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These I contemplated from the dining car over a sloshing carton of tea, while Mr Duffill, similarly hunched, kept an eye on his parcels and stirred his tea with a doctor's tongue depressor. Past the hopfields that give Kent a Mediterranean tangle in September; past a gypsy camp, fourteen battered caravans, each one with its own indestructible pile of rubbish just outside the front door; past a farm and, forty feet away, the perimeter of a housing estate with lots of interesting clothes on the line: The fact that we didn't stop gave this English train an air of hurrying purpose.

We sped to the coast for the Channel crossing. But it was a false drama. Duffill, at his pitching table, ordered a second cup of tea. The black train yards of Ashford loomed and tumbled past, and we were crossing the hummocky grass of Romney Marsh, headed towards Folkestone. By then I had left England behind. So had the other passengers. I returned to my compartment to hear Italians raising their voices, perhaps deriving courage from the assurance that we were at the edge of England.

Some Nigerians, who until that moment had been only a quartet of bobbing headgear -two Homburgs, a turban, and a beehive wig - became vocal in Yoruba, seeming to spell out each word they used, smacking their lips when they completed a syllable. Each passenger migrated to his own language, leaving the British muttering and averting their eyes. The man said, 'War Graves Commission takes cares of them. The Nigerian lady leaned over and read the station sign: The wind, rising from the harbour, which was lead grey and pimpled with drizzle, blew into my eyes.

I was squinting with the cold I had caught when the first September chill hit London and roused in me visions of palm trees and the rosy heat of Ceylon. That cold made leaving all the easier; leaving was a cure: Two elderly men stood there. One was tapping a florin on the counter, trying to get the barman's attention. Awfully small. His clothes don't fit him. But have you seen him? Godfrey said he's been sick. He might have been the person under discussion. But he wasn't: Duffill had that uneasy look of a man who has left his parcels elsewhere, which is also the look of a man who thinks he's being followed.

His oversized clothes made him seem frail.

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A mouse grey gaberdine coat slumped in folds from his shoulders, the cuffs so long, they reached to his fingertips and answered the length of his trampled trousers. He smelled of bread crusts. He still wore his tweed cap, and he too was fighting a cold. His shoes were interesting, the allpurpose brogans country people wear.

Although I could not place his accent - he was asking the barman for cider - there was something else of the provinces about him, a stubborn frugality in his serviceable clothes, which is shabbiness in a Londoner's. He could tell you where he bought that cap and coat, and for how much, and how long those shoes had lasted. A few minutes later I passed by him in a corner of the lounge and saw that he had opened one of his parcels.

A knife, a length of French bread, a tube of mustard, and discs of bright red salami were spread before him. Lost in thought, he slowly chewed his sandwich.

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The station at Calais was dark, but the Paris Express was floodlit. I was comforted.

Lady Glencora says to her friend, 'We can get to the Kurds, Alice, without getting into a packet again. That, to my way of thinking, is the great comfort of the Continent. I boarded and, finding my compartment oppressively full, went to the dining car for a drink.

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A waiter showed me to a table where a man and woman were tearing their bread rolls apart but not eating them. I tried to order wine. The waiters, hurrying back and forth with trays, ignored my pleading face. The train started up; I looked out the window, and when I turned back to the table I saw that I had been served with a piece of burned fish. The roll-shredding couple explained that I'd have to ask the wine waiter.


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I looked for him, was served the second course, then saw him and ordered. The man and woman looked at me. The woman was smiling, but the man gave me a rather unfriendly stare. He said, 'Graham Greene wouldn't have to do research. The man sighed. He said, 'He'd know it already. Mind you, I think it's a good novel. I think you should read it. He spoke to the woman. That's what he wrote. It's in my bag. The dining car rocked the cruets and sauce bottles, the dessert was served with coffee. I had finished my half-bottle of wine and was anxious for another, but the waiters were again busy, reeling past the tables with trays, collecting dirty plates.

He loaded the saucer with money and led the woman away without another glance at me. My own meal came to forty-five francs, which I estimated to be about ten dollars. I was horrified, but I had my small revenge. Back in my compartment I realized I had left my newspaper on the table in the dining car. I went back for it, but just as I put my hand on it, the waiter said, 'Qu'est-ce que vousfaites?

I said, 'Burned fish. A tiny portion of roast beef. Courgettes, burned and soggy, cold potatoes, stale bread, and for this I was charged forty-five, I repeat, forty-five-' He let me have my paper. At the Gare du Nord my car was shunted on to a different engine. Duffill and I watched this being done from the platform and then we boarded. It took him a long time to heave himself up, and he panted with effort on the landing.

He was still standing there, gasping, as we pulled out of the station for our twenty-minute trip to the Gare de Lyons to meet the rest of the Direct-Orient Express. It was after eleven, and most of the apartment blocks were in darkness. But in one bright window there was a dinner party ending, like a painting of a city interior, hung and illuminated in the shadowy gallery of rooftops and balconies. The train passed and printed the window on my eye: All the props, and the men in shirt sleeves, spoke of amiable intimacy, the sad comedy of a reunion of friends. Jean and Marie had been away.

Jean was smiling, preparing to clown, and had pulled one of those confounded French faces. He waved his hand back and forth and said, 'She got up on the table like a madwoman and began shaking it at me like this. I said to Marie, "The Picards will never believe this! And then she - ' The train made its slow circuit of Paris, weaving among the dark buildings and shrieking frseeeeeeeee-fronnnng into the ears of sleeping women. The Gare de Lyons was alive, with that midnight glamour of bright lights and smoking engines, and across the gleaming tracks the ribbed canvas over one particular train turned it into a caterpillar about to set off and chew a path through France.

On the platform arriving passengers were yawning, shambling with fatigue.

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The porters leaned on luggage carriers and watched people struggling with suitcases. Our car met, and coupled with, the rest of the Direct-Orient Express; that bump slid the compartment doors open and threw me forward into the lap of the lady opposite, surprising her from sleep. He assembled his parcels and, grunting, produced a suitcase, bound with a selection of leather and canvas belts as an added guarantee against it bursting open. A few cars down we met again to read the sign on the side of the wagon-lit: We stood there, staring at this sign; Duffill worked his glasses like binoculars.

Finally he said, 'I took this train in nineteen twenty-nine. Duffill had gathered up his parcels and his strapped suitcase and moved down the platform. It was a great train in , and it goes without saying that the Orient Express is the most famous train in the world. Like the Trans-Siberian, it links Europe with Asia, which accounts for some of its romance. But it has also been hallowed by fiction: Dekobra's heroine, Lady Diana 'the type of woman who would have brought tears to the eyes of John Ruskin' , is completely sold on the Orient Express: But I may step off at Vienna or Budapest.

That depends absolutely on chance or on the colour of the eyes of my neighbour in the compartment. My compartment was a cramped two-berth closet with an intruding ladder. I swung my suitcase in and, when I had done this, there was no room for me. The conductor showed me how to kick my suitcase under the lower berth. He hesitated, hoping to be tipped. The conductor shrugged, perhaps yes, perhaps no. His vagueness made me withhold my tip.

I took a stroll down the car: At the far end of the car a man wearing a turtleneck, a seaman's cap, and a monocle was setting up bottles on the windowsill: Duffill was standing outside my compartment.


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